New England Striper Rolls

If you’ve spent a season chasing striped bass along the New England coast, you already know the back half of the problem: what to do with the fish once it’s in the cooler. A striper roll is the answer most days. People call it a Poor Man’s Lobster Roll, which is funny, because unless you’re catching the bass yourself (our preferred method), lobster is usually cheaper per pound than fresh striper at the market.

I built this recipe off one from Andy Nabreski of On the Water Magazine, and it’s been in regular rotation ever since. Cod or any other sturdy white fish works in place of striper if that’s what you’ve got. The same mix is also good piled on a salad for a summer picnic, and the rolls themselves wrap in foil cleanly — two of them with an ice pack travel well in a lunchbox.

Ingredients

• Striper fillets
• 4 tablespoons kosher salt
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 2 tablespoons mayonnaise (or to taste)
• 1 medium stalk of celery, finely diced (optional)
• New England-style hot dog rolls (for outsiders: split along the top, not the sides)
• Paprika
• Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

1. Bring 6 cups of water to a boil, then add the salt and sugar and stir until dissolved.
2. Add the fillets and leave them on the heat for about 2 minutes.
3. Turn off the heat and let the fish rest in the hot water for about 5 minutes, or until cooked through.
4. Remove the fillets, pat dry with paper towels, and refrigerate for at least an hour.
5. Once thoroughly chilled, sprinkle with paprika, then break the fish into chunks.
6. Mix with the mayonnaise, minced celery, and pepper.
7. Serve on toasted, buttered split-top rolls.

A cold beer alongside doesn’t hurt. Neither does a second roll.

Frequently Asked Questions

What fish can I substitute for striped bass in a striper roll? Cod is the closest match — firm, mild, and it holds up to poaching without falling apart. Any sturdy white fish works: haddock, pollock, or even mahi if you’re further south. The poaching method and the mayo ratio stay the same.

Why poach the fish instead of grilling or frying it? Poaching keeps the texture clean and the flavor neutral enough that the fish reads as the main event, not the cooking method. It also chills well, which matters — you want the fish cold before it goes in the roll.

What makes a New England-style hot dog roll different? The split runs along the top, not the side. That flat-top opening lets you butter and toast both cut faces on a griddle, which is the whole point. If you’re outside New England and can’t find them, a brioche hot dog bun is a reasonable substitute, though purists will notice.

Is a striper roll really cheaper than a lobster roll? Only if you catch the bass yourself. Fresh striper at the market often runs higher per pound than lobster, which is why the “Poor Man’s Lobster Roll” nickname is a little ironic. The flavor case for striper stands on its own — you don’t need the comparison.